May I Help You, Madame?
The Making of the Modern Department Store
Fall Exhibition on view November 11, 2025 through January 18, 2026
A postcard of Le Bon Marché in Paris, detail. C. 1900.
The Flagler Museum's 2025 Fall Exhibition, May I Help You, Madame? The Making of the Modern Department Store, is on view from November 11, 2025 through January 18, 2026. This exhibition explores the rise of the department store as one of the most influential, and transformative, institutions of modern urban life. Emerging in 19th-century Paris with innovations like Le Bon Marché, the department store quickly became a global phenomenon, reshaping the landscape of commerce, architecture, gender roles, and public space. American interpretations, from Lord & Taylor and Bergdorf Goodman to regional powerhouses like Wanamaker’s, adapted the model to suit a rapidly modernizing society, blending luxury, mass consumption, and spectacle.
At the heart of this transformation was the female figure, both behind and in front of the counter. The “shopgirl” became a new symbol of working-class aspiration, navigating structured employment in elegant surroundings while carving out pathways toward economic independence. Simultaneously, department stores courted the female consumer with unprecedented sophistication, constructing new ideals of femininity through fashion, leisure, and consumption.
Sponsored by:
Special Lecture
Creating Desire: The Changing Face of Window Dressing
by Simon Doonan
6:00 pm, Tuesday, December 2, 2025
Museum Members at the Patron level and above and by Invitation
A special lecture by celebrated window dresser and author Simon Doonan shares the artistry, wit, and theatricality that defined his legendary displays for Barneys New York. Drawing from decades of experience, Doonan explores how department store windows evolved into cultural statements, shaping public taste and inspiring generations of designers. This lively talk offers a behind-the-scenes look at an often-overlooked art form that merges commerce, creativity, and storytelling.
Simon Doonan, the man hailed by Women’s Wear Daily as “the diminutive doyenne of display,” takes a freewheeling romp through the history of store window display, exploring the changing role played by this mysterious form of creative expression in both art and commerce. Doonan will highlight the work and the intriguing personae of the individuals who have drawn crowds to the great emporiums of style since the 19th Century. Simon, winner of the coveted CFDA award for his work in this field, will share anecdotes and highlights from his decades-long career at Barneys New York. His display installation titled ‘Flagler a La Mode’ is a central component of the current exhibition.
Fall Exhibition Lecture
They All Came to Barneys
by Gene Pressman
6:00 pm, Monday, December 8, 2025
The Flagler Museum is pleased to welcome Gene Pressman, former Co-CEO, Creative Director, and Head of Merchandising and Marketing for Barneys New York, for a special talk and book signing celebrating his latest publication, They All Came to Barneys. In his book, Pressman chronicles the legendary rise of Barneys New York, the groundbreaking luxury retailer that redefined fashion and retail culture for generations. Drawing on his decades of creative leadership, Pressman offers an insider’s look at the artistry, innovation, and bold vision that transformed Barneys into an international style icon. As Ermenegildo Zegna writes, “Through the pages of this book one can revisit the magic of Barneys.”
Documentary Premiere and Discussion with Robert Rufino and The Urban Electric Co.
6:00 pm, Wednesday, January 7, 2026
Museum Members at the Patron level and above and by Invitation
Join The Urban Electric Co. for the premiere of the behind-the-scenes documentary following legendary visual artist and street theater pioneer, Robert Rufino. In a full-circle moment, Rufino returns to his earlier work as a window dresser to bring the pages of the brand’s annual magazine, The Current, to life, transforming 10th Street in New York City into a living canvas of imagination and craft. Screening followed by a Q&A with Robert Rufino.
Fall Exhibition Children’s Tour and Activity
10:00 am to 12:00 pm, Saturday, November 22, 2025
Included with Museum Admission, pre-registration recommended
The Flagler Museum Education Department will host a special program, suitable for children ages 7 to 14, from 10: am to 12:00 pm. Children are invited to tour the Fall Exhibition with the Director of Education, followed by a hands-on activity related to the exhibition. Children will make their own department store window-dressing diorama. Children need to be accompanied by an adult. However, the adult may tour the Museum while their child attends the program. The program will be held in the second floor Exhibition Gallery and the Flagler Kenan Pavilion. This program is free with regular Museum admission, pre-registration via the website is recommended. You may purchase admission tickets on arrival at the Museum or in advance:
Children's Tour & Activity Pre-registration Recommended:
